There’s a stretch of water between Washington State and British Columbia that sailors, cruisers, and marine adventurers whisper about in reverent tones. It’s not the Caribbean with its endless marketing. It’s not the Mediterranean with its crowds of tourists. It’s the Inside Passage of the Pacific Northwest—specifically the San Juan Islands, the Gulf Islands of Canada, and the legendary Desolation Sound—and it might just be the most spectacular cruising ground on Earth that nobody’s talking about.
Why This Region Remains One of the World’s Best Kept Secrets
In an age where social media has turned every hidden beach into a crowded hotspot, this corner of the Pacific Northwest has somehow maintained its mystique. Perhaps it’s the cool Pacific waters that deter those seeking tropical warmth. Maybe it’s the challenge of navigating tidal currents that can run six knots. Or possibly it’s simply that those who discover this paradise want to keep it to themselves.
But here’s the truth: these waters offer something increasingly rare in our modern world—genuine wilderness combined with accessible comfort, dramatic scenery without the drama of crowds, and marine life encounters that will leave you speechless.
The Geography of Paradise: Understanding the Salish Sea
The Salish Sea encompasses the interconnected waterways of Puget Sound, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the Strait of Georgia, and the channels threading through the San Juan and Gulf Islands. This inland sea is protected by Vancouver Island to the west and the Olympic and Coast Mountains to the east and north, creating a unique microclimate and ecosystem.
The San Juan Islands sit in U.S. waters just north of Washington State, while the Gulf Islands—their Canadian counterparts—dot the waters between Vancouver Island and mainland British Columbia. Further north, Desolation Sound represents the northern jewel of this cruising ground, a pristine marine park wilderness where the mountains plunge directly into deep, protected waters.
The San Juan Islands: Your Gateway to Adventure
Why Start Here
Most charter adventures with Roam Charters begin in the San Juan Islands, and for good reason. The archipelago of 172 named islands (at high tide) and countless unnamed rocks and islets creates an intricate maze of protected waterways perfect for exploration.
Sarah’s Story: “I’d sailed the Caribbean twice and thought I’d seen it all. Then my husband surprised me with a week aboard a charter in the San Juans for our anniversary. On day two, we were anchored in Fossil Bay on Sucia Island, and a pod of orcas swam right past our boat. My husband was making coffee below, and I was screaming for him to come up. We just stood there, cups in hand, watching these massive animals glide by in water so clear we could see them underwater. The Caribbean suddenly felt… overdone. This was raw. This was real.”
The Magic of Island Hopping
Each island has its own character. San Juan Island offers the cosmopolitan charm of Friday Harbor, where you can dock for provisions and a waterfront dinner. Orcas Island is the crown jewel, with Mount Constitution rising 2,409 feet and offering panoramic views that will make you understand why people fall in love with the Pacific Northwest. Lopez Island moves at “Lopez time,” where locals wave to every passing car and stress seems to evaporate.
But it’s the smaller islands—Shaw, Stuart, the state park islands like Jones and Matia—where the real magic happens. These are places where you might be the only boat in the anchorage, where bald eagles outnumber people, and where the only sound is the splash of a harbor seal or the cry of a gull.
Crossing into Canada: The Gulf Islands Experience
A Different Flavor of Paradise
Once you’ve cleared customs (which can be done by phone or online), the Gulf Islands offer a distinctly Canadian take on the Inside Passage experience. While the San Juans have a rugged, frontier spirit, the Gulf Islands blend wilderness with a touch of sophistication—artisan cheese makers, organic farms, and a thriving arts community.
Michael’s Account: “We spent three days in the San Juans before crossing into Canadian waters. The Gulf Islands felt like the San Juans’ more artistic older sibling. On Saturna Island, we anchored in Winter Cove and hiked to the local vineyard for a wine tasting. That evening, back on the boat, we watched the sun set while sipping local wine and eating fresh Dungeness crab we’d bought from a fisherman that morning. My teenage daughters, who’d been sullen about ‘a boring boat trip,’ didn’t touch their phones once that day.”
Must-Visit Gulf Islands
Salt Spring Island is the largest and most developed, with a vibrant Saturday market that draws visitors from across the region. The harbors at Ganges and Fulford are excellent bases for exploring the island’s galleries, farms, and restaurants.
Pender Island (actually North and South Pender, connected by a small bridge) offers excellent anchorages and the unique experience of hiking between two oceans—well, two sides of the same channel, but it feels dramatic nonetheless.
Saturna Island is quieter, wilder, and perfect for those seeking solitude. Winter Cove Marine Park provides excellent protection and access to hiking trails with stunning cliff-top views.
Galiano Island stretches long and narrow, with Montague Harbour being one of the most popular (and beautiful) anchorages in the entire Gulf Islands chain. The shell beaches here glow white against the dark forest backdrop.
Mayne Island punches above its weight in charm, with miners’ heritage dating back to the gold rush days and some of the best bakeries and cafés in the islands.
Desolation Sound: The Crown Jewel
Why It’s Called the World’s Best Cruising Ground
If the San Juans and Gulf Islands are spectacular, Desolation Sound is transcendent. Captain George Vancouver named it “Desolation Sound” in 1792 because he found the area desolate with wildlife (he was there at the wrong time of year). Modern visitors know better—this is one of the most biologically rich marine environments on Earth.
The Thompson Family Chronicle: “We’d been chartering with Roam Charters for years, always staying in the San Juans. When our captain suggested we do a two-week trip all the way to Desolation Sound, we thought he was crazy—two weeks on a boat with three kids? But we trusted him. That trip changed our family. No, really. We saw black bears fishing at the shoreline. We found hot springs you could only reach by boat. We swam in Tenedos Bay—the warmest seawater north of Mexico, our captain said. My son, who’d been struggling in school and with confidence, caught his first salmon. We anchored in Grace Harbour surrounded by mountains still topped with snow in July, and my daughter said, ‘I feel like we’re the only people on Earth.’ For that week, we basically were.”
Understanding Desolation Sound’s Unique Appeal
Desolation Sound sits at the north end of the Strait of Georgia, where the ocean currents, tidal flows, and protected waters create a unique environment. Summer water temperatures can reach the low 70s°F—warmer than anywhere else on the coast at this latitude. The sound is actually a complex of islands, inlets, and protected waterways covering about 3,300 square miles.
Prideaux Haven is often called the most beautiful anchorage in the world. It’s a landlocked harbor accessed through a narrow passage, with tendrils of deep water reaching into pristine forest. You can anchor in Laura Cove, Melanie Cove, or any of a dozen perfect spots, each offering complete protection and stunning beauty.
Tenedos Bay on the west side of the sound offers the warmest swimming water and excellent oyster beds. At low tide, you can walk the shell beaches and marvel at the abundance of marine life in the tide pools.
Grace Harbour provides a good base for exploring the Copeland Islands Marine Park, a protected archipelago where harbor seals haul out by the hundreds.
The Wildlife of Desolation Sound
This is grizzly bear country. While the bears generally stay inland, black bears are commonly seen along the shoreline, especially in the early morning and evening. Wolves occasionally swim between islands. Mountain goats cling to impossibly steep cliffs.
The marine life is equally impressive. Orcas patrol these waters. Humpback whales have returned after decades of absence. Pacific white-sided dolphins surf the bow waves. Dalls porpoises zip past in their characteristic black-and-white blur.
The Cruising Experience: What Makes This Region Special
Protected Waters and Accessibility
Unlike ocean cruising, which requires offshore experience and can be punishing even for seasoned sailors, the Inside Passage offers protected waters with relatively short passages between anchorages. You’re rarely more than a few miles from shore, and there’s always a protected harbor to duck into if weather turns.
This accessibility doesn’t mean it’s without challenge. Tidal currents can be significant—Rapids like Dodd Narrows and Porlier Pass require careful timing. But with proper planning (or better yet, an experienced captain from a service like Roam Charters), these challenges become part of the adventure rather than stress.
The Weather: Why Summer Is Paradise
Pacific Northwest weather has a reputation for rain, but summer tells a different story. From mid-June through September, the region enjoys some of the most pleasant weather on Earth—warm days with temperatures in the 70s and 80s, cool nights perfect for sleeping, and remarkably little rain.
Jennifer’s Perspective: “I’m from San Diego, so I was skeptical about vacationing in the Pacific Northwest. ‘Won’t it rain?’ I kept asking. Our ten-day trip in August had one cloudy morning and nothing but sunshine otherwise. The light is different up there—softer, more golden. And unlike San Diego where it’s just sunny all the time, the presence of clouds and mountains and dramatic skies made every sunset an event. We probably took 500 photos, and we’re not photo people.”
The Cultural Experience
This region straddles two countries but shares a maritime culture that transcends borders. The islands are home to artists, writers, organic farmers, and people who’ve consciously chosen a slower pace of life. You’ll find excellent restaurants serving hyper-local cuisine, farm stands selling organic produce, art galleries showcasing Pacific Northwest talent, and a genuine warmth from locals who appreciate respectful visitors.
Planning Your Inside Passage Adventure
How Long Do You Need?
The short answer: as long as you can manage. A weekend charter in the San Juans offers a taste. A week allows you to explore either the San Juans thoroughly or make it up to the southern Gulf Islands. Ten days to two weeks opens up the northern Gulf Islands. And three weeks or more lets you reach Desolation Sound and back with time to truly explore.
Most first-timers book a week and immediately wish they’d booked two. The rhythm of life on the water takes a few days to settle into, and just when you’re fully relaxed, it’s time to return.
Bareboat or Captained Charter?
While experienced sailors might opt for bareboat charters, this region truly shines with a professional captain aboard. The local knowledge—where to find the best anchorages, how to time the passes, where the whales are likely to be—transforms a good trip into an extraordinary one.
Roam Charters’ captained experiences include not just navigation expertise but also local insights: which island has the best bakery, where to find the freshest oysters, which beach is best for tide pooling at this particular tide.
Robert, a veteran sailor: “I’ve skippered my own boat for 30 years and initially resisted hiring a captain. Pride, I guess. But my wife wanted to visit Desolation Sound, and I’d never been that far north. Best decision we ever made. Our captain, James, had been cruising these waters for 40 years. He took us places I never would have found, told us stories about the history, helped us spot wildlife, and gave me tips that improved my own seamanship. I was on vacation instead of being the unpaid captain for my family. I actually got to relax.”
When to Go
June brings long days—sunset after 9 PM—and the landscape is lush and green. Wildflowers bloom. The water is still cool but warming.
July and August are peak season for good reason. Warm weather, warm water, and the best whale watching. Book early for these months.
September offers fewer crowds, stable weather, and beautiful fall colors beginning to emerge. The water is at its warmest.
October is for the hardy—weather can be more variable, but the fall colors are spectacular, and you’ll have many anchorages to yourself.
Real Talk: What Makes This Better Than Other Cruising Grounds?
The Caribbean Comparison
The Caribbean is beautiful, but it’s been discovered. Popular anchorages can have 30+ boats. The marine life has been stressed by over-tourism. It’s expensive. And while warm water is lovely, there’s something about the cool, clear waters of the Pacific Northwest that feels more alive, more vital.
The Mediterranean Alternative
The Mediterranean offers incredible history and culture, but again—crowds. Anchorage fees. Complicated bureaucracy. And you’re seeing civilization, which is wonderful, but different from the wild beauty of the Inside Passage.
The Pacific Northwest Difference
What makes the San Juan Islands through Desolation Sound special is the combination of wilderness and accessibility. You can anchor in a pristine bay surrounded by old-growth forest and snow-capped mountains, with orcas swimming past and eagles overhead, then motor an hour to a charming village with excellent restaurants and wine bars.
You get both the wild and the civilized, often on the same day. You get marine life encounters that people pay thousands to experience on dedicated expeditions. You get uncrowded anchorages even in peak season. And you get scenery that rivals anywhere on Earth.
Stories That Stay With You
The Grandmother’s Tale: “I’m 73 years old, and I’d never been on a boat overnight until my family booked a charter with Roam Charters for my 70th birthday. I was terrified I’d be seasick or uncomfortable. Instead, I had the most magical week of my life. We saw a humpback whale breach—completely out of the water—so close I could see the barnacles on its fins. We found a beach covered in sand dollars. We kayaked through bioluminescent water at night, every paddle stroke leaving a trail of sparkles. My grandchildren still talk about that trip, and they’re planning another for my 75th.”
The Proposal Story: “I’d been planning to propose to Maya for months and wanted it to be perfect. Our captain helped me set it up. We anchored in a remote cove in the Gulf Islands—I think it was Cabbage Island—and he sent us ashore in the kayaks for a ‘sunset paddle.’ I had the ring in a waterproof case. We rounded a point, and there was this perfect little beach with driftwood forming a natural arch. I’d been so nervous I’d drop the ring in the water or fumble the speech, but the moment was so beautiful that everything just… happened. She said yes. We got married last month, and instead of a tropical honeymoon, we went back to the islands for two weeks. Different charter, same captain. He was honored to be invited.”
The Environmental Responsibility
This region’s pristine nature isn’t an accident—it’s the result of strong conservation efforts, marine protected areas, and a culture of environmental stewardship. When you visit, you become a part of that stewardship.
This means practicing proper anchoring techniques to protect eelgrass beds. It means respecting wildlife viewing distances (at least 200 yards from marine mammals). It means carrying out all trash and being careful with gray water. The islands remain pristine because visitors treat them with respect.
Reputable charter companies like Roam Charters build these practices into their operations, ensuring that your adventure contributes to conservation rather than degradation.
Making It Happen: Your Journey Starts Here
The San Juan Islands, Gulf Islands, and Desolation Sound aren’t going to stay secret forever. As more people seek authentic wilderness experiences, as the climate makes traditional cruising grounds less appealing, and as word spreads about this remarkable corner of the world, these waters will see more traffic.
But for now, in this moment, you still have the opportunity to experience one of Earth’s most spectacular marine environments before the crowds arrive. You can anchor in bays where you’re the only boat. You can watch orcas hunt in water so clear you can see 30 feet down. You can swim in warm water surrounded by snow-capped mountains. You can kayak through passages lined with old-growth forest that has never been logged.
The question isn’t whether you should go—it’s why you haven’t already.
Whether you’re an experienced cruiser looking for your next adventure or a first-timer ready to discover what the marine world has to offer, the Inside Passage from the San Juan Islands to Desolation Sound delivers an experience that will recalibrate your understanding of what a vacation can be.
This isn’t a trip you take and forget. This is the kind of journey that changes how you see the world, that becomes the story you tell at dinner parties, that your kids remember their whole lives.
The islands are waiting. The whales are there. The anchorages are (for now) uncrowded. And the adventure of a lifetime is just a conversation away.
Start planning your Inside Passage charter with Roam Charters today, and discover why those who know consider this the best cruising ground on Earth—and why they’ve kept it secret for so long.