Exploring Lake Union: Seattle’s Urban Waterfront Playground

I fell in love with Lake Union ten years ago on a random Tuesday in July. My buddy Mark had just bought a beat-up runabout, and we took it out as the sun was setting behind Queen Anne hill. Halfway across the lake, the engine died. We drifted aimlessly, watching seaplanes land as the city lights came on around us, sharing lukewarm beers and waiting for the tow boat. It should have been a disaster, but instead became one of my favorite Seattle memories.
That’s the magic of Lake Union – even when things go sideways, you’re still floating in the middle of one of America’s most beautiful cities.
If you’re planning a trip to Seattle and want to experience the city like a local, Lake Union needs to be on your list. Here’s my honest guide to making the most of this urban oasis, whether you’ve got an afternoon or a week to explore.
Lake Union Boat Rentals: The Best Way to Experience the Lake
Roam Charters: Go Big or Go Home
Last summer, I splurged on a Roam Charters yacht for my girlfriend’s birthday. Was it expensive? Yep. Worth every penny? Absolutely.
Their fleet ranges from 35-55 footers, all immaculately maintained. The best part is you don’t need boating experience – a captain comes with your rental. We cruised from Lake Union through the Montlake Cut into Lake Washington, popped champagne as we passed Bill Gates’ house, and anchored in a quiet cove for swimming.
Prices start around $300/hour with a 3-hour minimum. Split between 6-12 friends, it’s actually not insane for a special occasion.
Hot Tub Boats: The Weirdest (Best) Thing Ever
Only in Seattle would someone think, “You know what boats need? Hot tubs.” But the folks at Hot Tub Boats Seattle figured it out, and it’s brilliant.
Picture this: you’re soaking in 104-degree water in December, steam rising around you, cruising past Gas Works Park as it starts to snow. That was my 40th birthday, and I’ll never forget it.
The boats fit six people and run about $350-450 for two hours. No special license needed – they’re electric and move at walking speed. But book WAY ahead – weekends in summer get reserved months in advance.
Electric Boats: The Budget-Friendly Option
For a more affordable self-guided tour, The Electric Boat Company rents 21-foot Duffy boats that are idiot-proof to operate. My go-to route takes first-timers past the “Sleepless in Seattle” houseboat, around the north end of the lake, and through the yacht clubs on the east side.
Rates run $135-195/hour with a two-hour minimum. Split among friends, it’s cheaper than most Seattle tourists traps and infinitely more memorable.
Paddling Adventures: Earn Your Views
Kayaking: The Local’s Choice
Most mornings before work, you’ll find dedicated Seattleites getting their paddle fix on Lake Union. The relatively protected waters make it perfect for beginners, while the 6-mile shoreline loop offers plenty for experienced paddlers.
I rent from Northwest Outdoor Center when friends visit. Their single kayaks go for about $25/hour, and they’ll give you a quick orientation if you’re new to paddling.
Pro tip: The eastern shore’s floating home community is fascinating from water level. You can paddle right up to these multi-million dollar homes (just stay a respectful distance from private docks).
Stand-Up Paddleboarding
I tried SUP for the first time at Urban Surf after losing a bet that required me to “try something new and potentially embarrassing.” Five years later, I own my own board and hit the lake weekly in summer.
Lake Union is SUP-friendly, especially before 10am when the water’s calm and boat traffic is minimal. Rentals run about $25/hour, and the staff will help beginners get comfortable before heading out.
Can’t-Miss Lake Union Events
Opening Day: Seattle’s Boating Holiday
The first Saturday in May marks Opening Day, when Seattle officially kicks off boating season. Since 1920, this celebration has grown into a massive maritime festival with decorated boats, rowing races, and enough champagne to float the Space Needle.
Even without a boat, the energy is infectious. I usually watch from MOHAI’s lawn with a picnic, then walk to the Montlake Cut to see the parade.
Duck Dodge: Tuesday Night Chaos
My favorite Seattle tradition is the Duck Dodge, a Tuesday night sailing “race” that’s more party than competition. Since 1974, sailors have gathered for themed races where costumes and creativity count as much as speed.
My old roommate crewed regularly, and I tagged along one “pirate night.” Thirty boats full of swashbuckling sailors, water cannon fights between vessels, and a floating raft-up party afterward made for an unforgettable Tuesday.
Watch from Gas Works Park, or if you’re lucky, find a boat that needs crew – sailors often look for extra hands at the docks before the race.
Fourth of July: The Ultimate Waterfront Fireworks
Lake Union’s July 4th fireworks show is Seattle’s biggest, with explosions launched from a barge in the middle of the lake. The reflections on the water double the spectacle.
After trying various viewing spots over the years, I’ve found Gas Works Park offers the best experience, despite the crowds. Get there by noon to claim a spot, bring provisions, and make a day of it.
New Year’s Eve: Space Needle Reflections
The Space Needle’s fireworks reflect perfectly on Lake Union, creating a double display. Several years ago, I splurged on an Argosy Cruise New Year’s package – being on the water when midnight struck with the illuminated Needle in the background was pure magic.
If boat tickets are beyond your budget, watching from the eastern shore near Fairview Avenue offers similar reflection views without the maritime premium.
Lakeside Eats & Drinks
Westward: Seafood With a View
Westward is my go-to for impressing out-of-towners. The Mediterranean-inspired seafood is fantastic, but it’s the setting that sells it – Adirondack chairs facing the water, fire pits for chilly evenings, and boats pulling up to the dock while you dine.
Their smoked manila clam dip haunts my dreams, and the seasonal oyster selection never disappoints.
Ivar’s Salmon House
When my parents visit, we always hit Ivar’s Salmon House. The Northwest Native American-inspired cedar building has been serving alder-smoked salmon since 1970, with enormous windows framing Lake Union.
Yes, it’s a bit touristy, but locals still pack the place for happy hour – proof that good views and better food never go out of style.
The 100 Pound Clam
After kayaking, I often refuel at The 100 Pound Clam, a casual dockside spot with counter service and picnic tables right on the water. Their fish and chips are consistently great, and the seafood rolls make for perfect one-handed eating while watching boats parade by.
Boater Services Worth Knowing
Fuel Docks
Running low on gas mid-lake adventure? Head to Morrison’s North Star Marine at the north end. Beyond fuel, they’ve got basic supplies and snacks. I once limped in on fumes during a boat rental and the staff couldn’t have been nicer about my rookie mistake.
Guest Moorage
Friends who’ve boated up from Tacoma recommend Lake Union Piers for overnight moorage. Centrally located with reasonable rates (around $1-2 per foot), it puts you walking distance from South Lake Union’s restaurants and shops.
Lake Union Landmarks You Can’t Miss
Gas Works Park: Industrial Art Meets Epic Views
Gas Works Park is Seattle’s weirdest, most wonderful green space. The rusting remains of a gasification plant create an industrial playground with the city’s best skyline views.
I’ve flown kites from its central hill, napped in its sheltered picnic areas during surprise rain showers, and watched countless sunsets from its shore. It’s where I take every first-time Seattle visitor.
Center for Wooden Boats: Living Maritime Museum
The Center for Wooden Boats feels like stepping back in time. These folks preserve traditional wooden vessels and the skills to build them, offering workshops and free Sunday public sails (first-come, first-served).
I’ve spent rainy afternoons wandering their docks, admiring the craftsmanship and chatting with volunteer shipwrights who share boat-building wisdom with remarkable patience.
MOHAI: Seattle Story Central
The Museum of History & Industry occupies a repurposed Naval Reserve building at Lake Union Park. Beyond the excellent exhibits about Seattle’s evolution, the top-floor periscope offering 360-degree lake views is worth the admission alone.
Insider Tips for Lake Union Visitors
Best Times to Visit
- Early mornings are my favorite – the lake is mirror-calm before 9am
- Tuesday evenings in summer bring Duck Dodge sailing races
- Sunset hours offer legendary pink and orange reflections on downtown buildings
- Weekdays mean significantly less boat traffic and easier parking
Weather Real Talk
Seattle weather is bipolar, especially around the lake where conditions can change in minutes. Summer (July-September) offers the most reliable sunshine, but I always pack a light jacket even on 80-degree days – wind off the water can chill you quickly.
May and June locals call “Juneuary” for a reason – gorgeous one moment, drizzly the next. The surprise rain showers usually pass quickly, so don’t abandon lake plans at the first cloud.
Parking That Won’t Drive You Crazy
Parking around Lake Union can be a special kind of Seattle nightmare, especially weekends. Your best bets:
- The AGC Marina lot near MOHAI is reasonably priced and centrally located
- Street parking north of Gas Works in Wallingford is free but time-limited
- For South Lake Union activities, park downtown and take the South Lake Union Streetcar – it’s worth avoiding the parking headache
Hidden Lake Union Treasures
Seaplane Rides: Splurge-Worthy Thrills
For my 5th anniversary, I surprised my wife with a Kenmore Air scenic flight. Taking off from Lake Union in a seaplane offers heart-stopping views of the city, Space Needle, and mountains beyond.
At around $125 per person for a 20-minute tour, it’s not cheap, but watching the lake shrink beneath you as the city reveals itself is truly unforgettable.
The “Secret” Beach
Few tourists know about the tiny public access beach on the eastern shore near E Roanoke St. It’s barely marked, sandwiched between expensive homes, but perfectly legal for public use. I’ve spent many lunch breaks here, feet dangling in the water, watching boats and planning my eventual floating home purchase (when I win the lottery).
My Perfect Lake Union Day
If friends visit and want the quintessential Lake Union experience, here’s my itinerary:
Morning:
- Breakfast at Portage Bay Cafe – get the seasonal pancakes with their unlimited toppings bar
- 2-hour kayak rental from Northwest Outdoor Center, paddling past houseboats and yacht clubs
Afternoon:
- Lunch at The 100 Pound Clam, eating at dockside tables
- Wander through the Center for Wooden Boats
- Relax on Gas Works Park’s great lawn, people-watching and soaking up views
Evening:
- Sunset electric boat rental for a 2-hour cruise
- Dinner at Westward, sitting in Adirondack chairs with blankets as the city lights come on
- Nightcap at Eastlake Bar & Grill’s waterfront deck
Final Thoughts
Lake Union isn’t just a body of water – it’s Seattle’s liquid heart. Where working vessels, pleasure craft, paddlers and swimmers somehow coexist in beautiful chaos. Where industry meets nature, history meets cutting-edge tech, and perfect strangers offer to help when your boat breaks down.
Whether you’re visiting for a day or moving in for good, spending time on Lake Union connects you to Seattle in a way that no Space Needle visit or Pike Place Market stroll ever could. It’s where this city’s soul lives, floating on water that reflects back all our messy, wonderful contradictions.
See you on the lake!
About the author: Mike has lived in Seattle for 15 years, owns more rain gear than any rational person should, and believes time on water is never wasted. His Lake Union adventures have included one capsized kayak, three Duck Dodge races, and countless sunset beers at Gas Works Park.